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Five Fast Fixes- 5/6/14

Just like you, we see our share of new and unique vehicle problems. The 5 Fast Fixes below are examples of some recent head scratchers that we worked through with customers on our Repair Hotline.

These short-cut tests and confirmed fixes are now at your fingertips along with more than 600,000 Hotline Archives in Direct-Hit.

 

Vehicle:

2009 Scion tC Base 2.4L, L4, MFI, DOHC, Eng Desg 2AZFE, Naturally Aspirated, GAS

Mileage:

64,209

Customer Concern:

When the headlights are turned on, the combination meter illumination and radio go dark.

Tests:

1. Check the voltage of the 7.5 panel fuse when the headlights are switched on. If the voltage drops, clean the fuse contacts and recheck it.

2. If the fuse has 12 volts, check the voltage of the Red wire connector 1P pin 6. This is the wire that goes to the combination meter to power the combination meter illumination.

3. Check the White wire at pin 11 of the combination meter, the voltage should change when the rheostat is moved. If not, the rheostat in the combination meter could be bad.

Potential Causes:

Instrument Panel (IP) Junction Block
15 Amp PANEL Fuse
Combination Meter
Dash Illumination Rheostat

 

Confirmed Fix:

Replaced Dash Illumination Rheostat
 

Tech Tips:

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Vehicle:

2006 Buick Allure CXS 3.6L, V6, MFI, DOHC, VIN 7

Mileage:

86,250

 

Customer Concern:

Trouble codes C0040, C0041 and C0245.

 

Tests:

1. Test wheel speed sensor output spinning by hand with a volt meter. Compare side to side.

2. Swap the hub bearings side to side.

3. See if the code follows.

4. If the code moves with the hub bearing, the hub bearing is defective.

 

Potential Causes:

Hub Bearing
Wheel Speed Sensor(s)

 

Confirmed Fix:

Replaced Right Rear Hub And Bearing Assembly
 

 

Tech Tips:

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Vehicle:

2010 Honda CR-V EX-L 2.4L, L4, MFI, DOHC, Eng Desg K24Z6

Mileage:

64,389

 

Customer Concern:

The alarm goes off at times and the hood switch data does not change on the scan tool. The hood switch has been replaced and the data for the hood switch still does not change.

 

Tests:

1. Test the Light Blue wire from connector G13 on the under dash fuse box to connector C301 under the hood between the left headlight and the strut tower for an open or short. The Light Blue wire then runs from C301 to the hood switch.

 

Potential Causes:

Hood Switch
Hood Switch Wiring

 

Confirmed Fix:

Repaired Hood Switch Wiring: Repaired the wire between the hood latch switch in the front to the fuse box, the Light Blue wire.
 

 

Tech Tips:

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Vehicle:

2008 Chevrolet Malibu Hybrid 2.4L, L4, MFI, DOHC, VIN 5, SFI, ELECTRIC/GAS, Ecotec

Mileage:

120,000

 

Customer Concern:

The system voltage is running at 11.8 volts. Trouble codes P0562 and U0120. The Starter Generator Control Module (SGCM) will not communicate with the scan tool.

 

Tests:

1. Confirm the scan tool communicates with the Engine Control Module (ECM), Transmission Control Module (TCM), and Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM).

2. Turn the ignition off for 2 minutes.

3. Test the resistance between Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals 6 and 14. There should be 60Ω.

4. If OK, disconnect the two SGCM connectors with 24 terminals each.

5. Check for coolant in the SGCM and harness connectors.

6. If there is coolant, the SGCM is defective.

7. If there was no coolant, test the SGCM powers and ground:
12 volts on the Red/White wire in terminal 1 in the X2 connector,
12 volts in run and crank on the Pink wire in terminal 3 in the X2 connector,
Ground on the Brown/Orange wire in terminal 9.

8. If OK, the SGCM module is defective.

 

Potential Causes:

Starter Generator Control Module (SGCM)
Starter Generator Control Module (SGCM) Wiring

 

Confirmed Fix:

Replaced Starter Generator Control Module (SGCM) Wiring: There was power on the BAS IGN fuse in the underhood fuse block, but no power on the Pink wire in terminal 3 at the Starter Generator Control Module (SGCM). The Pink wire was replaced from the fuse block to the SGCM.
 

 

Tech Tips:

If the Starter Generator Control Module (SGCM) is replaced, it must be flash programmed.

 
 
 

Vehicle:

2010 Mazda 6 i 2.5L, L4, MFI, DOHC, VIN A, Eng Version Duratec, SFI

Mileage:

43,000

Customer Concern:

The smart key system lock/unlock button on the driver's door handle will not lock or unlock the doors. The button on the passenger's handle does lock and unlock the doors. It will unlock and open via the touch sensor in the door handle, so the antenna is picking up the key.

 

Tests:

1. Test the request switch in the driver's door handle. There should be continuity across terminals A and B of the door handle connector (Black/Red and Black wires) when the switch is depressed. If not the switch is faulty.

2. If the switch tests good, verify there is a good ground at the Black wire of terminal B at the door handle connector.

3. Check for a 10-12 volt reference on the Black/Red wire when the door handle is unplugged. If there is no reference voltage, check for a broken wire in the door harness.

4. If there is a 12 volt reference and the request switch is good, the switch should drop the 12 volt reference signal to ground when the switch is depressed.

 

Potential Causes:

Left Front Door Outer Handle
 

Confirmed Fix:

Replaced Left Front Door Outer Handle
 

 

Tech Tips:

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